Sep 17, 2010 5:27 PM
I took the guide for the creation of fucking machine on the french version of TFM (http://www.thefuckingmachine.net), and I have translated it.
Sorry for bad english (google translator). In this guide I would accompany you in creating your own fucking machine. Hoping that this writing will be useful. What I propose here is to build a complex machine in any way. The mechanism is simple and manufacturing as well. However, do not expect that to be the "quick". This achievement will ask for a little time and effort.
The machine in question is yours in a box sized conventional tools (internal: 460 x 190 mm). The fund is essentially dressing; Our fucking machine has its own frame screwed to the box. It can therefore be used without the credit. The mechanism itself consists of a 12V DC motor with gears, a drive wheel, a rod and a rod. And it is wood! It's easier to work. (Warning: The size and dimensions shown in this guide are there for guidance. It may be that you have a case and therefore different in different ratings.). You will be getting? First you need a toolbox. Somewhat Favor plastic crates with metal boxes (easier to pierce). For me this shook a box of brand Curver simple:
In terms of interior dimensions I'm about 46 cm by 19. Also ensure that the fund has either a single volume (not compartmentalized or otherwise). If your box has internal reinforcements remove the cutter. It will complicate our task if ... Let the cuts ...
We have built a solid foundation for our machine ... So I opted for wood thickness 18 mm: If I'm not mistaken ... is MDF. Maybe your hardware store sells carts scrap wood? If you have nothing at home, it is a good solution. That is cut so a plate of 460 mm by 190 as a base (Ya full of holes ... in fact ... it's normal, I completely disassembled my machine to show detail.)
The board should sit at the bottom of the box. It is important to be able to link it to a tool box thereafter. Note that the reinforcements mentioned above have been removed. It's easier than cutting notches in the plate ... An Old Drill! Wireless ... Obviously ...
Should You probably have one of these relics to the bottom of a workshop or a garden shed? In general the batteries never take a really long time and put it in the bottom of a shelf, saying: "It will help me ..." And yes ben! It's going to get some parts ... First, the power unit. We offer couples and "silence" (as some engines) through multiplication by satellite ca.
You can also get the drive and tinker with a remote control. (Be careful not to break the legs of the transistor attached to the radiator (like me) or you'll have a big worry). Therefore, in this version I preferred to use a kit: This is the kit in question. Available from Conrad for € 29.95 (per hour or writing) unmounted ... Obviously ... It is protected against the blocking motor amperage adjustable frequency and also supports up to 10 Amps ...
FYI: The engine uses vacuum 1A and 3 "in action", 10 amps you should be fine ... It is expensive but at least it's a sure bet. You can still use the vario drill it will be fine ... Let the wall panel ... It's going to support the system. A board of approximately 470 mm by 150 of the same thickness as the base. Ie 18mm. With a 40 mm hole to pass through the engine.
It is placed 60 mm from the top and 15mm from left edge (plot) You will notice that the hole has three small recesses. This will be to get the engine and jammed.
And then we screwed the base and the vertical panel together. It gives it. At home I had to add a 5mm spacer. Otherwise the drive wheel touched the base ... Haaa ... It is a design guide not an assembly manual ^ ^. The slides. Important parts. It is they who guide the aluminum bar.Another important part. This is the wheel training. The plan is available in the appendices. It is a simple circle cut out of 10mm plywood and drilled several holes that allow to adjust the travel of the bar. In clearer: "Touch" or "very deep" ^ ^ Why is it that the center hole in this form there? Simply Because without the bar that crosses the axis, as you see it all the time, the wheel tends to loosen and ... To go away simply ...
So ... Yes, it is necessary to drill the axis of the housing multiplier but I have this solution to get the engine torque without worries ... For the black screw. It is the one blocking the chuck of the drill (not reversed screw, bolt unscrewed =). You will need the overlap because it has an axis that passes through the thread now ^ ^. It's not rocket science. But is the long ... Adjustment, adjustment ... The rod. Important Thing ... Limiting the game at all costs is what it is for bearing with me (what I board). You can tighten them, they always turn. And we put them in force in the plexiglass piece for aesthetics. You can very well make wood! The design is available in Annex. Then riding on the wheel training. I used hex screws 6 mm in diameter (M6) and a few slices for that. We'll have to pierce the aluminum bar. For me, the hole is 45 cm from one end (the bar is 1 meter). For drilling I used a 5.5 mm drill bit and then retract the screws 6 mm in force. This avoids additional nuts, and I know if I'd had the space between the bar and the vertical panel ... And now, the mechanism is in place. Make sure it runs properly, without much resistance. Make the same test by connecting the motor to 12 volts. It will give you an overview And yes ... That's good ! ^ ^
Attacking the electrical part. I opted for a power supply, more practical than batteries. It delivers a voltage of 12 volts and goes up to 5 amps. What is Adequate. Price levels, about 10 € direct from China on Ebay. (3 weeks to arrive. It's long yeah ^ ^) Instead of soldering a potentiometer on the circuit; This was not practical ... I bought 2 meters of wire 3 wires (2 € 80) plus a potentiometer fixable (and not a volume pot circuit) that I put in a wooden box. And now ... A remote control! We fix it all behind the vertical panel. When you plug the power supply and motor circuit. And it blocks the son! Because force stress. It may damage the track circuit. And 30 € is not given ... We will therefore make two small wooden pieces that are coming pinch son (remote control and power). That way at least ... No worries ... (Picture attached). Small detail: hooks planted on the base with a rope. It allows you to attach the machine when it is running. Otherwise it may fall back and not do well his "work". Well now. We arrive at the end ... It puts the machine in the box. Cut 2 holes at the ends to let the aluminum bar and make sure proper operation. And finally screw the frame to the plastic container. One last thing. Fixing your toy! For my part I made it part-cons, because I use a lot of toys with suction cups. Otherwise you can always try to plug the toy above but ... Everyone does as he feels! Below are previews of a machine ready to be stored and used
The advantage of a fucking machine in a tool box that is easily transportable and that it attracts less attention!
So, hoping that my experience will have been useful. I gave you some keys to building your fucking machine.
If you run, I hope it will be successful!
And be careful ... The engine is tough ^ ^